Method of producing shirt bands, shirt collars, and the like



June 29, 1948. V M SPERBER 2,444,381

METHOD OF PRODUCING SHIRT BANDS,

' SHIRT COLLARS AND THE LIKE Filed March 16, 1944 3 Sheets-Sheet l III/081%? W S erzer 5% f fiaze ys June 29, 1948. M. SPERBER METHOD OF PRODUCING SHIRT BANDS sum COLLARS AND THE LIKE Filed March 16, 1944 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 iiiiiiliiil .Ev iii-11.171

. M. SPERBER METHOD OF PRODUCING SHIRT BANDS,

June 29, 1948.

SHIRT COLLARS AND THE LIKE 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed March 16, 1944 2216298 PAW Me e 3 Patented June 29, 1948 1 UNIT-ED .srAaes roar-1 cc METHODOFPRODUCINGISHIE'EWS, I

= snm'r .GOLLARS, AMDCTHE iii-11m Meyer Sperber, Elkin'siPack; Pa.

Application March 16, 1944, Scri5lNo $26, 72

; 2. .Ql aims. '1 This invention relates to mens outer shirts, and more particularly to amethod'cf'producing the neck bands of shirts having permanently attached collars. The methodof the: present invention is equally adaptable to regularlshirts for general wear or sport shirts having thein'eck band and cape of the collar so formed as to be folded along" a longitudinal median line,.1to simulateea regular turn-over'collar,':or to'be folded 0III"Sl1bstantially the lineof attachment-of the collar tothe shirt'and on contiguous cbnvergingextensions thereof toform an open Vz=neck withia wide lay-down collar.

The presentinvention particularly concernslthe inside lining of the neck band and capeofthe permanently attached collars.

The collar of a shirt, neck band and cape alike, usually consists of three plies of textile fabric, namely twoouter or-facing fabrics of broad cloth or other fabric from which shirts are commonly made, and an intermediate ply of lining material, such as buckram or the'like.

' In'some instances the lining material is'composed 'of, orincludes' filaments of a fusible "character, which, after fabrication ofthe collar are heated or chemically treated, or both, to cause the two facing fabrics and the lining to adhere to each other and forma single laminated Whole, whereby the collar will retain a degree of stiffness which eliminates the use of starch in the laun-- cleringof the 'shirt collar.

Prior to-the present invention, it has been-customary to cut the lining and facing fabrics of the neck bands and capes with the warp threads, for

example, running longitudinally of the "neck band, i; e. around the neck, and with the waiter filling threads extending transversely of the neck band, i. e. up and down, or viceversa. r "In :some instances the fusible lining :is'rcutbn thebiasand assembledwith the facing fabrics, with' the warp and weft of the fusiblelining dis-- posed diagonallyzto the warp and weft of the facing fabrics; to secure a better bond thereb'etween during the fusing of the lining material to the facing fabrics.

The present invention is not concernedwith.

collars employing fusible linings. In theccollars to which this invention is directed, the lining material ispurpos'ely intended to retain'its identity,

and to'remain free of and relatively movablewithr respect to'ithe facing fabrics, for reasons whic will appear more fully hereinafter. i i

The :facing fabrics and the linings of thezneck bands. are:usually cut to the sameshapeandzsize by; thezusei ofclickeri dies, in. a m anner wellknown;

(clue- 143) i 5E2 toastheishirt industry iz'andrthe facings andllinings ofithe riapeszaressimilarlyiformed.

L'Ihezrcapesmndiliningsvare assembled inra flat condition,:each ha'yingithesame general neck-encircling measurement. l In theiinishd shirt; the capei-iisrturned+over,routside the neck hand; on a longitutlma'limedianicld lineirthus .the neck band formsaarfsubstantiallyi complete. inner: circle "of one diameter-J amtthencapdlformszai substantially completelouterieircleof .arrsomewhatclargen diameter ifio'weveriiim the cuttingf'ofltheirape fabrics and'ithersassemblingzlthereofaawitlratherrneckiband fabricsg zncr'qorovisionliisimade for dhisndiiference in. diametermsubh tay bylcuttingf the"; capesionger tharr the'neckibarid, aszsuclrprocedureiwould .involve complications in the :lasser'nliling t: of ithe par-ts.

Th'e -above noted -deficiency lr'eslilts,; unl:l'er: condit'ions ofu use and particularly i'afterr' the ilShiTt has beeri' launderedia fewitixnesgin the necleband beingcontracted circumferetitiallwby the circumposed cape whicn-aasvnbtedlabove; isirof the same initial circumferential measurement. imhisicau ses theme-cit handte pusher and form intowa :series of undulationsaroundthe'neck which afiords the wearer a great deal lif 'clisceiiiforture;=+particule3rly when the neck band oftheshirt fits-the wearers neck rather snugly.

Tlie'hbiect ofthepresentirrvention is :to' provide ial l'ining primafi ly 'fof the neck band'of the shirt, and -one-whfch maw he advantageously employed in the cape or the collar as welL-r'zwhi'ch maybe cut and assembled in the usual manner but which will eliminate-the =u1ides'irable uridulating i or the neck'ha'nd ininse. i

In theaccompanying drawirigs:

Fig-i is a e-erspective wieweof the upperparh of ashirt with a permanehtly attached' collar==iemployin'gi at leastllin the" neck band' thereof; a; lining made in accordance with the presentinvention;

.TFigi'TZis a 'section'alwiew taken-'on the-lin 2 4, Ei' l l;

EigJBLlsa'" View similar Ito" Figiz showing the neck ibandvarid' capi'formed as asingleintegral unit;

Figs. 4, 5 and G arefiatdetached views or the outer facing and innerliningelements of theneck anmcapeiprior touattachmentrto; ashirt;

Fig. 11 illustrates the manner of assembling the components of the cape;

Fig. 12 illustrates the cape as being reversed for assembly with the neck band;

Fig. 13 illustrates the neck band and cape assembled and. stitched together; and

Fig. 14 illustrates the neck band as being reversed after stitching to the cape, preparatory to the assembled collar structure being applied to a shirt, the section being taken on the line MI4, Fig. 10.

As shown in Figs. 4, and 6, the neck band I (Fig. 1) comprises an inner lining ply of textile fabric A. The lining fabric A is cut on the bias, i. e. with the warp threads al and weft threads a2 substantially at right angles to each other and diagonal to the longitudinal axis :c-a: of the neck band.

The neck band I also includes one facing ply B and a second facing ply C, out straight, i. e.

with the warps and wefts bI, b2, cI, c2 respectively, substantially at right angles to each other and with either the warps or the wefts, in each instance, extending substantially parallel to the longitudinal axis :t-a: of the collar band I.

The cape '2 of the collar also may include an inner bias cut lining D, and straight out outer facings E and F, as shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9.

In assembling the collar structure of Fig. 10, the two facings E and F and lining D of the cape 2 are placed flatly together, as shown in Fig. 11, with the marginal edges of the three pieces flush one with another, after which they are stitched together adjacent one longitudinal marginal edge and the end marginal edges of the assemblage, as shown at 3, in Fig. 11.

The assemblage is then reversed, bringing the lining D intermediate the facings E and F.

The assembled and reversed cape 2 is then inverted and placed between the facings B and C,

of the neck band, with the lining A outside the facing 13, and with the raw opposite longitudinal edges of the cape elements D, E and F flush with a raw longitudinal edge of each of the neck band elements A, B and C, as shown in Fig. 13, whereupon the assemblage is stitched together parallel to and adjacent said raw edges by a row of stitching 4.

The assemblage of Fig. 13 is then reversed, as shown in Fig. 14, bringing the lining A of the neck band I intermediate the facings B and C thereof and with the cape 2 extending from the neck band I in a plane substantially common to both.

Second rows of stitching 5 and 6 may be run parallel to the rows 3 and 4 respectively, as shown in Fig. 14, to further stitch together the elements of the neck band I and cape 2 respectively. The second row 5 in the cape 2 may be run prior to assembly of the cape with the elements of the neck band.

The remaining raw longitudinal edges of the neck band are then turned in as shown in Fig. 2, and the upper edges of the double plies G and H of the yoke I of the shirt, the front panels 8 and 9, and the button hole strip I0 placed therebetween, after which the assembled collar structure is permanently secured to the shirt by one or more rows of stitching II'.

In Fig. 3 is shown a collar structure for a sport shirt, wherein the neck band Ia and cape 2a are devoid of seams at the upper edge of the neck band, as a result of the lining and outer facings being formed of single pieces embodying both neck band and cape portions respectively.

The lining material from which the neck band lining A and cape lining D, as well as the lining for the one piece neck band and cape of Fig. 3, is preferably of a plain gauze weave or open mesh fabric, preferably running approximately thirtyeight to forty-rsix picks and warps per inch, for example, with the warp and weft or filling threads of sucha count as to afford open interstices therebetween, or at least with the warps and filling threads sufficiently loosely interwoven to permit relative pivotal movement between the warps and wefts at the respective crossings thereof, in the plane of the fabric.

This lining fabric, prior to being cut to shape is finished in such a manner that all pivotal movement between the warps and wefts, at their crossings, is substantially eliminated. This is accomplished by treating the fabric with a water soluble substance such as starch, which when dry sticks the warps and wefts together and prevents relative rotary planar movement therebetween. This, in order to distinguish the lining in the present case from the synthetic fabrics of the aforesaid fused collars, the lining material hereinafter is referred to as a temporarily fixed textile material.

The lining units A, for example, are cut from a sheet of such finished lining material with the warps and wefts at angles to the longitudinal axis ar-a: of the respective units.

The stiffness and stability of the lining units A and D facilitates the assembling of the lining and facing fabrics of the neck bands and collar capes. The adhesion between the warps and wefts prevents any stretching of the lining during the stitching operations. However, after the shirts have been completed and laundered the cohesion between the warps and wefts of the lining fabric A of the neck band is destroyed, by the starch or other adhesive which has been used to stick the warps and wefts together, becoming dissolved in the laundering of the shirt.

When released, the warps and wefts lying at oblique angles to the longitudinal axis of the neck band are free to rotate relatively at their points of crossing, providing a sort of lazy tongs action which permits the lining to expand and contract longitudinally, within the plane of the lining fabrics. Thus, when the cape of the collar, or the necktie lying between the neck band and the cape of the collar, applies a circumferential contracting force to the neck band, the lazy tong action becomes effective between the warps and wefts of the lining material and permits the neck band to be contracted circumferentially without the neck band being forced out of its own plane into a series of undesirable undulations, thereby permitting the neck band to maintain a smooth even condition at all times.

While the invention has been herein described as being applied to the collars of shirts, it will be clear that the invention is equally applicable to the cuffs of shirts, particularly if the cuffs are of a turn-back type, similar to a turn-over collar. The invention is also applicable to detachable collars of the so called soft type, as distinguished from the stifi starched type of collar.

I claim:

1. The method of producing shirt bands, which consists in applying a water soluble agent to a textile fabric containing intersecting warp and weft threads and adapted to be used as an inner lining for shirt bands, said agent being adapted to retain said warp and weft threads temporarily in predeterminedintersecting fixed relation to each other against relative pivotal movement in the plane of said inner lining fabric, cutting outer facings from textile fabrics to a predetermined contour, cutting a correspondingly shaped inner lining on the bias from the aforesaid textile fabric pretreated with the water soluble agent, and stitching said facings and linings together around the marginal edges thereof to form a laminated blank of the said predetermined contour, subsequent washing of said blank dissolving said agent to release the warp and Weft threads of said lining for relative pivotal movement about their points of intersection whereby said lining may expand and contract concurrently with said fac ings.

2. The method of producing shirt collars and the like of the type comprising outer textile fabric facings and an intermediate fabric lining, which lining is composed of intersecting warp and weft threads disposed diagonally with respect to the longitudinal axis of the collar, and wherein the said warps and wefts are free for relative pivotal movement therebetween at their points of intersection in the plane of the lining fabric, said method consisting of treating the said lining prior to its incorporation in the collar with a water-soluble agent adapted to retain said warp and weft threads temporarily in predetermined REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 269,229 Pine et al Dec. 19, 1882 1,246,985 Niederberger Nov. 20, 1917 1,766,259 Payne June 24, 1930 1,857,170 Taber May 10, 1932 1,995,187 Lind Mar. 19, 1935 2,103,492 Roberson Dec. 28, 1937 2,204,152 Rubinstein June 11, 1940 2,286,510 Rubinstein June 16, 1942 2,311,897 Goldenkoif Feb. 23, 1943 

